which type of oil for a 2005 C230?

Call them up and ask them what they used... it is pretty simple... if you
paid like $70+ for oil change, it is most likely synthetic.

If you paid like $30, then it is dino oil.

You can mix anyway you like... but synthetic is best for all cars... I
prefer thinner oil... 0W20 or 0W30.

Seum

2011-04-12 10:48:13 UTC

Post by Tiger
Call them up and ask them what they used... it is pretty simple... if you
paid like $70+ for oil change, it is most likely synthetic.
If you paid like $30, then it is dino oil.
You can mix anyway you like... but synthetic is best for all cars... I
prefer thinner oil... 0W20 or 0W30.

Hello again Tiger :-)

I was under the impression that the synthetic oils could erode and
destroy the older seals or gaskets. Is this true still?

At present I still use the 20-50 grade of the old oil. 1984 Mercedes
Benz 240 D with 91,600 miles and still running very well.

Right now though I am in a bit of a hole with headlamps. I have moved
from a RHD country to a LHD one, so my steering wheel is on the left
side of the car - looking forward - and I drive on the left side of the
road too. So the lights must dip to the left side. I have some great
lamps - 2D1 Sylvania Halogen, but they have to go. Now I am looking for
the equivalent for Halogen left dippers.

TIA

DAS

2011-04-12 11:16:07 UTC

... and if you add regular mineral oil to synthetic you will, of course,
lose some of the properties of the synthetic, such as longevity.

DAS
--
To reply directly replace 'nospam' with 'schmetterling'
--

Post by Seum

Hello again Tiger :-)
I was under the impression that the synthetic oils could erode and destroy
the older seals or gaskets. Is this true still?
At present I still use the 20-50 grade of the old oil. 1984 Mercedes Benz
240 D with 91,600 miles and still running very well.
Right now though I am in a bit of a hole with headlamps. I have moved from
a RHD country to a LHD one, so my steering wheel is on the left side of
the car - looking forward - and I drive on the left side of the road too.
So the lights must dip to the left side. I have some great lamps - 2D1
Sylvania Halogen, but they have to go. Now I am looking for the equivalent
for Halogen left dippers.
TIA

Tiger

2011-04-12 14:52:56 UTC

I don't find that the case anymore... I have converted my diesel with 196000
miles into synthetic 5W40 oil. No problem at all.

Chevron Delo 400 regular oil is so higholy rated that I would recommends it
instead of synthetic.

One hing changes is that you should use thinner oil... 15w40 or even 5w40.
You will find the car runs smoother and more power while conserving fuel.

For gasoline engine, I would go as thin as possible in synthetic.

PeterW

2011-04-12 13:54:56 UTC

Eventually got to my local Merc garage and they recommended fully synthetic
5w40 oil

Thanks for the replies

Peter

Post by PeterW
Can I use semi synthetic to top up or synthetic? I have no idea what's in
it now as the oil change was done by the merc garage.
Sorry if this has been asked a hundred times before
Cheers
Peter

Seum

2011-04-12 15:39:48 UTC

Post by PeterW
Eventually got to my local Merc garage and they recommended fully synthetic
5w40 oil
Thanks for the replies
Peter

Post by PeterW
Can I use semi synthetic to top up or synthetic? I have no idea what's
in it now as the oil change was done by the merc garage.
Sorry if this has been asked a hundred times before
Cheers
Peter

Thanks to all :-)

Good news! I'll use up my "old" oil and then go over to synthetic. How
often does the synthetic oil need to be changed?

Roland Franzius

2011-04-12 16:22:36 UTC

Post by PeterW
Eventually got to my local Merc garage and they recommended fully synthetic
5w40 oil
Thanks for the replies
Peter

Post by PeterW
Can I use semi synthetic to top up or synthetic? I have no idea
what's in it now as the oil change was done by the merc garage.
Sorry if this has been asked a hundred times before
Cheers
Peter

Thanks to all :-)
Good news! I'll use up my "old" oil and then go over to synthetic. How
often does the synthetic oil need to be changed?

Since this is an very old diesel engine with an old filter, change oil
at old intervals, 5000km/3000miles, at least once a year.

--
Roland Franzius

Cordy

2011-04-13 08:11:27 UTC

Post by Roland Franzius
Since this is an very old diesel engine with an old filter, change oil
at old intervals, 5000km/3000miles, at least once a year.

Mmm... "very old" diesel engine, a 2005 engine?
Am I missing some message?

What'd I say, using a 1982 2,4 l NOT turbo diesel, pre-camera engine?
Stone-age engine? :-)

--
Ciao!

Stefano

Roland Franzius

2011-04-13 08:41:16 UTC

Post by Roland Franzius
Since this is an very old diesel engine with an old filter, change oil
at old intervals, 5000km/3000miles, at least once a year.

Mmm... "very old" diesel engine, a 2005 engine?
Am I missing some message?
What'd I say, using a 1982 2,4 l NOT turbo diesel, pre-camera engine?
Stone-age engine? :-)

Sorry, must have been confused by the 240D thread.

It depends on the MB description for your engine.

Diesel engines are producing hugh amounts of ashes if you are not using
a special oil with low ash production. Otherwise the filter capacity for
ashes is limiting the mileage.

Modern MB diesel engines with particle filters and 10000 miles/2years
service intervals need specification MB 229.31 or MB 229.51

Full synthetic definitely reduces motor noise in my opinion. A mileage
increase of 2% is possible, but that does not pay the higher price.

--
Roland Franzius

Roland Franzius

2011-04-13 17:00:06 UTC

Post by Roland Franzius
Since this is an very old diesel engine with an old filter, change oil
at old intervals, 5000km/3000miles, at least once a year.

Mmm... "very old" diesel engine, a 2005 engine?
Am I missing some message?
What'd I say, using a 1982 2,4 l NOT turbo diesel, pre-camera engine?
Stone-age engine? :-)

Sorry, must have been confused by the 240D thread.
It depends on the MB description for your engine.
Diesel engines are producing hugh amounts of ashes if you are not using
a special oil with low ash production. Otherwise the filter capacity for
ashes is limiting the mileage.
Modern MB diesel engines with particle filters and 10000 miles/2years
service intervals need specification MB 229.31 or MB 229.51
Full synthetic definitely reduces motor noise in my opinion. A mileage
increase of 2% is possible, but that does not pay the higher price.

Google translation from

http://www.motorlexikon.de/?I=4924

(DIN numbers are German industrial norms)

(Photo O37) The ash content of an engine oil is the proportion of
inorganic material that remains after ashing (burning and annealing) as
a residue. The determination is made according to DIN 51 575 at 775 ° C.
There is a distinction between oxide and sulfate ash. In the ash content
of the non-combustible components of the metal-organic additives are
also going impurities from used oils including silicon (dust) and
metallic abrasion. In the determination of sulphate ash oxide ash is
treated with sulfuric acid and ignited to constant weight. For motor
oils, it is customary to determine the sulfate ash, caused when the
engine already in use by contact with sulfur fuel sulfates. If both the
fresh oil has also made from used oil, a sulfate ash determination, a
conclusion to dust and abrasion is possible.

Non-additive base oils do not contain ash. Additized motor oils have the
type and concentration of the metal-organic additives different ash
contents, see Fig. These also depend on the specific requirements of its
purpose. Then any eg two-stroke boat motor oils no ash (bridging of the
spark plugs) and include cylinder oils for marine engines need to
neutralize the sulfuric acid produced during combustion by calcium and
magnesium carbonate have high ash contents. Within each group of motor
oils and with knowledge of the used metal-organic additives, the ash
content give a limited indication of the oil quality. By the decrease in
the sulfur content in fuel and the development of highly effective
ash-free organic additives in the past few years there is a tendency to
lower ash contents.

--
Roland Franzius

Tiger

2011-04-12 18:35:11 UTC

You can go synthetic or you can stick with Chevron Delo 400 15w40... I
used Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w40... great price at WalMart. Both available
at Walmart.

With synthetic, with your older diesel engine, I'd go as much as 7500 miles
or 1 year... whichever comes first.

With newer diesel... like 1995 or newer, I'd go up to 10.000 miles or 1
year... whichever comes first. If factory manual say longer, then go longer.

Today's oil is not like the old oil... they last much longer and protect
engine much longer. It is a total waste of money and our time to change oil
every 3000 miles. I would say 5000 miles is minimum.

If you are skeptical about 5000 miles, then do an oil analysis test at say
3000 miles and see what the report say... how much longer you can drive with
that oil. It's a good lesson.

Seum

2011-04-13 10:06:50 UTC

Post by Tiger
You can go synthetic or you can stick with Chevron Delo 400 15w40... I
used Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w40... great price at WalMart. Both available
at Walmart.
With synthetic, with your older diesel engine, I'd go as much as 7500 miles
or 1 year... whichever comes first.
With newer diesel... like 1995 or newer, I'd go up to 10.000 miles or 1
year... whichever comes first. If factory manual say longer, then go longer.
Today's oil is not like the old oil... they last much longer and protect
engine much longer. It is a total waste of money and our time to change oil
every 3000 miles. I would say 5000 miles is minimum.
If you are skeptical about 5000 miles, then do an oil analysis test at say
3000 miles and see what the report say... how much longer you can drive with
that oil. It's a good lesson.

My thanks to all for your posts.

My average mileage over 27 years was just under 3,500 miles and I have
been changing the oil regularly every year.

That's a great suggestion about having the oil analyses. Where does one
go for that?

In winter, where I live, the temperature rarely goes down to below zero,
-5 C or 45F minimum, if my memory is correct. In summer the temp rarely
goes above 35C or 86F. Which oils would be appropriate for this situation?

I have never noticed any ash problems with the oils I have used.

Roland Franzius

2011-04-13 11:38:14 UTC

Post by Seum
I have never noticed any ash problems with the oils I have used.

Diesel engine oil is black after some 100 km. Gas engine oil in a new
engine has still nearly dark honey color after 10000 km.

Of course it would be possible to filter coal and ash paricle but that
would mean to use a filter of the size of the engine for up to 50000km
intervalls as VW is anouncing now for their latest oil pollution control
system.

--
Roland Franzius

Seum

2011-04-13 13:00:36 UTC

Post by Seum
I have never noticed any ash problems with the oils I have used.

Diesel engine oil is black after some 100 km. Gas engine oil in a new
engine has still nearly dark honey color after 10000 km.

Thank you R.F.

I have noticed that the oil gets black very quickly and presumably that
means more pollutants in the air. I will definitely go for synthetic
when my present few quarts are gone. OTH, maybe I could make a trade in
some shop for the synthetic. Presumably I would have to wash out the
traces of the old oil before filling up again.

Post by Roland Franzius
Of course it would be possible to filter coal and ash paricle but that
would mean to use a filter of the size of the engine for up to 50000km
intervalls as VW is anouncing now for their latest oil pollution control
system.

I would guess in time the pollutants will be substantially reduced.
Wasn't there a system once in which the exhaust gases were recycled back
through the engine. Did it reduce the pollutants much?

Roland Franzius

2011-04-13 14:12:59 UTC

Post by Seum

Post by Seum
I have never noticed any ash problems with the oils I have used.

Diesel engine oil is black after some 100 km. Gas engine oil in a new
engine has still nearly dark honey color after 10000 km.

Thank you R.F.
I have noticed that the oil gets black very quickly and presumably that
means more pollutants in the air. I will definitely go for synthetic
when my present few quarts are gone. OTH, maybe I could make a trade in
some shop for the synthetic. Presumably I would have to wash out the
traces of the old oil before filling up again.

I would guess in time the pollutants will be substantially reduced.
Wasn't there a system once in which the exhaust gases were recycled back
through the engine. Did it reduce the pollutants much?

The diesel engine produces respirable dust of nanoparticles made of coal
and heavy oil.

Since some years Peugeot installed dust filters in the exhaust that will
hold it and burn it at sufficient exhaust temperatures. The others are
following now.

But most of it is just marketing noise, because it is impossible to
filter the very fine dust without power reduction. This is a problem
already in German cities where diesel cars make up 60 of 100 passenger
cars.

25 years ago a 240 D or any truck left black or blue stinking clouds.
Thats over now because of the computer controlled injection systems. But
the problem remains, the particles from the direct injection systems
much smaller now, invisible and more dangerous for the lungs than before.

Of course a health problem only if you are not smoking and working on a
ship or train with heavy oil diesels.

--
Roland Franzius

DAS

2011-04-13 14:25:47 UTC

I should just like to add that the appearance of soot in the oil just means
the oil is doing its job.

DAS
--
To reply directly replace 'nospam' with 'schmetterling'
--

Post by Seum

Post by Seum
I have never noticed any ash problems with the oils I have used.

Diesel engine oil is black after some 100 km. Gas engine oil in a new
engine has still nearly dark honey color after 10000 km.

Thank you R.F.
I have noticed that the oil gets black very quickly and presumably that
means more pollutants in the air. I will definitely go for synthetic
when my present few quarts are gone. OTH, maybe I could make a trade in
some shop for the synthetic. Presumably I would have to wash out the
traces of the old oil before filling up again.

I would guess in time the pollutants will be substantially reduced.
Wasn't there a system once in which the exhaust gases were recycled back
through the engine. Did it reduce the pollutants much?

The diesel engine produces respirable dust of nanoparticles made of coal
and heavy oil.
Since some years Peugeot installed dust filters in the exhaust that will
hold it and burn it at sufficient exhaust temperatures. The others are
following now.
But most of it is just marketing noise, because it is impossible to filter
the very fine dust without power reduction. This is a problem already in
German cities where diesel cars make up 60 of 100 passenger cars.
25 years ago a 240 D or any truck left black or blue stinking clouds.
Thats over now because of the computer controlled injection systems. But
the problem remains, the particles from the direct injection systems much
smaller now, invisible and more dangerous for the lungs than before.
Of course a health problem only if you are not smoking and working on a
ship or train with heavy oil diesels.
--
Roland Franzius

Tiger

2011-04-13 15:44:04 UTC

Exactly, just because the oil is pitch black doesn't mean it is all polluted
with harmful particles.. Switching to synthetic is going to slow down the
apperarance of black oil but not by much... maybe a couple of days.

The important part is the oil doing its job of lubricating the engine.

For Seum, at 3500 miles a year, it is once a year oil change... either oil
is fine... cythetic or Delo 400 but go thinner... not 20w50...

Post by DAS
I should just like to add that the appearance of soot in the oil just means
the oil is doing its job.
DAS

Seum

2011-04-13 19:01:58 UTC

Thanks again to all :-)

Does this imply that synthetic oils need to be changed every year?

Post by Tiger
Exactly, just because the oil is pitch black doesn't mean it is all polluted
with harmful particles.. Switching to synthetic is going to slow down the
apperarance of black oil but not by much... maybe a couple of days.
The important part is the oil doing its job of lubricating the engine.
For Seum, at 3500 miles a year, it is once a year oil change... either oil
is fine... cythetic or Delo 400 but go thinner... not 20w50...

Post by DAS
I should just like to add that the appearance of soot in the oil just means
the oil is doing its job.
DAS

Roland Franzius

2011-04-13 19:19:45 UTC

Thanks again to all :-)
Does this imply that synthetic oils need to be changed every year?

No, eg. the 206 peugeot (2004) with 2l HDI diesel has intervalls of
15000 km, maximal two years, or earlier if indicated by the sensor.

In the same way the latest MB assyst system shows the approximate rest
time or mileage.

More information at

http://www4.mercedes-benz.com/manual-cars/ba/cars/w204/en/in-depth/d64e50197.shtml#d64e50551

--
Roland Franzius

--

DAS

2011-04-14 11:50:56 UTC

Seum, synthetic oil lasts longer because it does not degrade as fast as
non-synthetic.

DAS
--
To reply directly replace 'nospam' with 'schmetterling'
--

Thanks again to all :-)
Does this imply that synthetic oils need to be changed every year?

No, eg. the 206 peugeot (2004) with 2l HDI diesel has intervalls of 15000
km, maximal two years, or earlier if indicated by the sensor.
In the same way the latest MB assyst system shows the approximate rest
time or mileage.
More information at
http://www4.mercedes-benz.com/manual-cars/ba/cars/w204/en/in-depth/d64e50197.shtml#d64e50551
--
Roland Franzius
--

Seum

2011-04-14 13:25:20 UTC

Post by DAS
Seum, synthetic oil lasts longer because it does not degrade as fast as
non-synthetic.
DAS

Good news DAS! :-)

runbiodiesel

2011-04-14 16:18:32 UTC

Interesting thread. Thanks for the info everyone. Tiger, when you say
"cythetic or Delo 400 but go thinner... not 20w50," does that apply to
just the newer cars? What would you say about an older 240D or 300TD?

Since the subject of particulates came up I wanted to add that burning
biodiesel or straight vegetable oil reduces particulates significantly
-- even at a fairly low ratio if you burn a mixture. It's also sulphur
free and carbon neutral (i.e the only carbon released is that
sequestered from the atmosphere by plants in the first place). The
higher lubricity also lengthens engine life. Rudolph Diesel ran his
prototype engine on peanut oil but oil companies were able to produce
diesel much cheaper. Today, in California, I now pay less for
biodiesel delivered to my house than for diesel at the pump!

Post by DAS
I should just like to add that the appearance of soot in the oil just means
the oil is doing its job.
DAS- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Tiger

2011-04-14 17:17:20 UTC

I highly recommends thnner oil for all cars.

For gas engine, I'd go 0W20 or 0W30.... 0W40 is factory fill at MB dealers.

For diesel engine, I'd go for 5W40 for oils that have diesel ratings... if
you can get thinner one with diesel rating... let me know! 5W40 is mainly
synthetic... I don't know any non-synthetic with that label.

Newer diesel engine... like say 2005 may even require thinner oil... so look
in the manual and see what it specifies.

Delo 400 15W40 is a dino oil but the high API rating of modern diesel engine
oil seems to bave a much higher lubricity than even the synthetic oil... I
didn't check further on this so I may be wrong.

Speaking of biodiesel or WVO... All MB diesel cars can handle up to 20%
biodiesel or WVO with zero modification.

With modification in the filter system, you can run 100% biodiesel or WVO.
HOWEVER... I find that it is best not to go beyond 75% WVO... the fuel
mileage drops as you go higher. The injectors doesn't handle as well at
higher level unless you change the injectors to Monark brand... Bosch
injectors works fine at 75% or lower.

Even with just one quart of vegetable oil in the fuel tank, you will notice
that the car runs alot cleaner... not much diesel smell at exhaust. So... if
you deep fry alot, save those oil... let it settle for like a month
undisturbed... it will be crystal clear again... and you will see gunk stuck
to the bottom of the bottle... just pour it in your fuel tank! Free fuel!

My quest for WVO is abysmal... hard to find or even buy WVO in my state.

"runbiodiesel" <***@gmail.com> wrote in message news:09c0075d-33e7-475a-8f77-***@x8g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
Interesting thread. Thanks for the info everyone. Tiger, when you say
"cythetic or Delo 400 but go thinner... not 20w50," does that apply to
just the newer cars? What would you say about an older 240D or 300TD?

Since the subject of particulates came up I wanted to add that burning
biodiesel or straight vegetable oil reduces particulates significantly
-- even at a fairly low ratio if you burn a mixture. It's also sulphur
free and carbon neutral (i.e the only carbon released is that
sequestered from the atmosphere by plants in the first place). The
higher lubricity also lengthens engine life. Rudolph Diesel ran his
prototype engine on peanut oil but oil companies were able to produce
diesel much cheaper. Today, in California, I now pay less for
biodiesel delivered to my house than for diesel at the pump!

Cordy

2011-04-15 09:06:33 UTC

Post by runbiodiesel
Since the subject of particulates came up I wanted to add that burning
biodiesel or straight vegetable oil reduces particulates significantly
-- even at a fairly low ratio if you burn a mixture. It's also sulphur
free and carbon neutral (i.e the only carbon released is that
sequestered from the atmosphere by plants in the first place). The
higher lubricity also lengthens engine life. Rudolph Diesel ran his
prototype engine on peanut oil but oil companies were able to produce
diesel much cheaper. Today, in California, I now pay less for biodiesel
delivered to my house than for diesel at the pump!

The key question on biodiesel is: how much of the land we use now to
produce food, can be converted to fuel production? Not enough, imho.

And... I'd like to contraddict Tiger, once in a million times! I know that
some older diesel engines suffer biodiesel. The rubber used in pipes, o-
rings (in the filter, but especially in the injection pump) are not
compatible with some substances contained in biodiesel and in oil derived
from seeds. That's a VERY expensive experience...

AFAIK especially Bosch systems manufactured before 1990 are totally
incompatible and pumps are completely worn out in less than 25.000 km.

Moreover, oler diesel engines suffer the so-called premium diesel fuel,
because it's less lubricating (contains less sulphur): some repair shops
suggest to add some engine oil in the injection pump (if there's a refill
cap) or directly with the fuel. 0.5 % mix is the suggestion I heard.
I tend to use less expensive diesel fuel, instead... I presume the
overall balance is still positive, in terms of emissions...

--
Ciao!

Stefano

Tiger

2011-04-15 13:56:09 UTC

Good points Cordy!

I forgets about the seals and rubber lines... Still, the rubber lines
should have been regularly changed so they should be already the new version
that is compatible with biodiesel and today's low sulfur diesel.

The seals in the fuel injection pump... you are right... it weeps at the
output injectors... which should be changed at this point of life for the
older diesels. 16 years on my car is enough for orings... should be changed
soon. Easy to repair... DieselGiants got some good instructions. Socket to
do the job not too bad... $30 something buck... seals less than $15 total.

WVO has all and more lubricity than biodiesel or even the diesel but is
kinda thick to run alone... like I said, fuel mileage suffers if there is no
diesel present...

Biodiesel produced ifrom waste oil is environmentally green... there are
tons of restaurants with waste oil. However, the prices for biodiesel in USA
is far more expensive than diesel itsel... at least in my state.

The key question on biodiesel is: how much of the land we use now to
produce food, can be converted to fuel production? Not enough, imho.
And... I'd like to contraddict Tiger, once in a million times! I know that
some older diesel engines suffer biodiesel. The rubber used in pipes, o-
rings (in the filter, but especially in the injection pump) are not
compatible with some substances contained in biodiesel and in oil derived
from seeds. That's a VERY expensive experience...
AFAIK especially Bosch systems manufactured before 1990 are totally
incompatible and pumps are completely worn out in less than 25.000 km.
Moreover, oler diesel engines suffer the so-called premium diesel fuel,
because it's less lubricating (contains less sulphur): some repair shops
suggest to add some engine oil in the injection pump (if there's a refill
cap) or directly with the fuel. 0.5 % mix is the suggestion I heard.
I tend to use less expensive diesel fuel, instead... I presume the
overall balance is still positive, in terms of emissions...

Cordy

2011-04-15 15:04:57 UTC

Post by Tiger
Biodiesel produced ifrom waste oil is environmentally green... there are
tons of restaurants with waste oil. However, the prices for biodiesel in
USA is far more expensive than diesel itsel... at least in my state.

I see. Now I understand why (in Italy) we have non biodiesel at all being
sold: not enough hamburgers sold!!! :-)
It's hard to manufacture biodiesel starting from the water used to boil
spaghetti!!! :-D

--
Ciao!

Stefano

runbiodiesel

2011-04-15 23:23:15 UTC

The key question on biodiesel is: how much of the land we use now to
produce food, can be converted to fuel production? Not enough, imho.

No land use issue for me. I burn bodiesel made from waste veggie oil.
I buy from a company that picks up the oil from over 400 restaurants.
It used to be a waste problem for restaurants and an expense, now they
sell it!

Post by Cordy
And... I'd like to contraddict Tiger, once in a million times! I know that
some older diesel engines suffer biodiesel. The rubber used in pipes, o-
rings (in the filter, but especially in the injection pump) are not
compatible with some substances contained in biodiesel and in oil derived
from seeds. That's a VERY expensive experience...

I run two older Mercedes Benz diesels, '79 240D and '82 300TD. The 300
has burned 100% biodiesel (except for an occasional addition of diesel
when it gets really cold) for seven years. I did have to replace the
rubber fuel lines made of rubber with neoprene (easy job) and the fuel
filler neck gasket too. Otherwise no issues with the engine, or fuel
system at all. I know a lot of the folks who buy their biodiesel where
I do as well and they all run B100 in their various diesels, including
many older MBs. Very few problems related to the fuel. Tiger is right
though, mileage does suffer a bit at 100% but i've measured it both
ways and it's not too signifcant.

Post by Cordy
AFAIK especially Bosch systems manufactured before 1990 are totally
incompatible and pumps are completely worn out in less than 25.000 km.
Moreover, oler diesel engines suffer the so-called premium diesel fuel,
because it's less lubricating (contains less sulphur): some repair shops
suggest to add some engine oil in the injection pump (if there's a refill
cap) or directly with the fuel. 0.5 % mix is the suggestion I heard.
I tend to use less expensive diesel fuel, instead... I presume the
overall balance is still positive, in terms of emissions...

I don't know about premium diesel fuel (never heard of it) but
biodiesel has much higher lubricity than diesel and no sulphur (so no
sulphur dioxide emissions). It's far better than diesel as a
lubricant. Also, I know so many people running 80s to newer MB diesels
on biodiesel. The problems you mentioned just don't exist with any
frequency in these cars. There are lots of forums and boards where you
can ask people who use the stuff questions if you're interested.

I admit, I chose to opt out of using diesel because it burns cleaner
and I didn't want to support wars for oil. But I'm practical and if it
were a hassle or causing expensive repairs I'd probably change my
mind. :) I couldn't be happier with the choice. If I had the time,
I'd probably make my own like some of the hippies around here do. LOL

Post by Cordy
--
Ciao!
Stefano

Tiger

2011-04-16 00:22:38 UTC

Great info... could you detail how you buy used WVO? I need to do that. I
need the source of WVO... they can sell you WVO just like that?

I converted my friend's 87 300SDL into WVO. We ran it full WVO and 75%
WVO/25% diesel... the fuel mileage is 22MPG and 28 MPG.

With 75/25, it doesn't completely reeks of oil smell. with full 100 WVO, it
really strong oil smell.

I have yet to try 100% biodiesel... it is just too darn expensive at the
pump... I think it is like $7 a gallon right now.

Roland Franzius

2011-04-16 05:39:01 UTC

Post by runbiodiesel